![]() Set your multimeter for the highest AC voltage range, and measure the voltage between points T1 and T2, between T1 and the tank body, and T2 and the tank body. This will make it more likely that the tank is hot enough that both should be switched off, but it also carries the risk of opening the stuck contact, leaving you with a questionable thermostat and no way to identify it. You may wish to switch both thermostats to their minimum setting. If the upper thermostat is the one that's stuck, you'll have a pretty steep temperature gradient in the tank, so let the tank sit for an hour or so. Let the tank heat up for a while until the water is well above the thermostat set point, then shut off power to it. If you've got a multimeter, it's easy you don't need to disconnect any wires or anything. ![]() T6 is the terminal with a single wire connected to the upper element, while T4 connects to both elements and T7 connects to the lower thermostat. Note that point "T6" in the schematic is on the right and T7 is on the left, while on most actual thermostats, it's the other way around. The switches are in the positions you'd find them on a hot tank with both thermostats working. The picture on the left is the upper thermostat for a typical water heater the schematic on the right shows both the upper and lower thermostats. There's never more than one element active at a time. ![]() The typical dual-element, dual-thermostat water heater in the United States is a "non-simultaneous" design: first the upper element heats the top of the tank to the set temperature, then the upper thermostat switches power to the lower thermostat, which uses the lower element to heat the rest of the tank. ![]()
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